This page, Part 7 and Part 8 are pretty much in chronological order within each page, but due to parts availability and other factors, work was being done on the three sections a bit at a time.  The charger and instrumentation work was done during breaks in the electronics board tasks, as was the work on the truck bed.  The writeup here is as though each task was started and proceeded straight through to completion.  This should make reading about the tasks clearer.

Electronics Mounting Board

Most of the electronics modules will mount on a board under the hood.  I have already mounted the hinges for this board in a previous section.  Using my cardboard template, my CAD layout, and predetermined dimensions, I cut the 3/4 MDF board to shape.  I verified the positions of the components from my layouts and started drilling mounting and cable access holes.
 
 

I am testing the layout according to my CAD drawing on my living room floor.

I have wired as much of the high current wiring as I can until I receive the controller. The vinyl tubing on the red positive connector cable is very stiff.  I have decided to replace it with a length of split loom to make it easier to plug and unplug the connector.  I will do the same on the negative cable. The electronic modules yet to be mounted are the DC to DC converter, the Controller, the Controller Interface (Hairball), and a fuse block.

I mounted all the high current components I have and started making their cables.  I made all the cables I can until I receive the controller.
 

The bottom of the board holds the two contactors, a 500 amp semiconductor fuse, and my ammeter shunt.  Two more cables will connect here and pass up through the board to the controller.

Finishing Electronics Board
 

I have primed and painted the electronics board - seen here in my "spray booth".  This contains all the mounting and wire access holes except for two I just defined, and the mounting holes for the controller and hairball.  I cannot drill them until I receive the hardware, as I have overall dimensions, but no detailed dimensioned drawing.

I think the installed board looks much better now that it is painted. My new red and blue split loom shows in this picture.  It provides the flexibility needed to plug and unplug the connectors. The red is very predominant now, but will be diluted a lot when the green controller and hairball, the silver DC to DC converter, and the black fuse block are installed, covering much of the surface.

Electronics Board Wiring

My next task was to complete the wiring of the electronics board to the extent possible prior to receiving my controller and interface, and to install it in the vehicle.  Of course, after installing the board, there were a number of additional wires to truck mounted items that needed to be connected.

Prior to completing the wiring, I spent quite a bit of time finalizing the schematics of both the high voltage and the low voltage portions of this board.  I then did the physical wiring.  For safety sake, I tried to keep most of the high voltage wiring on the bottom of the board and most of the low voltage on the top side.  

My finalized (as of this moment) schematic of the high voltage (120 volt DC) portion is shown here.  

Note of 2/6/09:  These next two schematics have been updated to reflect the changes needed for the added instrumentation which was installed well after the initial build.

And here is the low voltage one (12 volts DC).  (Also updated for the added instrumentation)

Wiring on the bottom side of the board is complete except for 2 heavy cables which will pass through the large hole in the top of the picture to the controller. The fuses protect various items at the battery pack voltage. The light gray wires are to the voltmeter and the ammeter in the cab.  They connect to the red terminal block and to the shunt. (The gold item in the center of the picture.) The white object at the lower left is the semiconductor fuse, rated at 500 amps, which will blow very quickly in case of a serious overload, and is supposed to protect the controller from damage. The two large black and metal items are the high current contactors.

The top of the board shows the DC to DC converter in the foreground.  This acts like the alternator in an ICE car, keeping the 12 volt battery charged and providing power for lights and accessories. At the upper left is the 12 volt fuse block and associated wiring. The blank area at the upper right is where the controller and its interface will mount.

This shows the 12 volt fuse block.  All the fuses are hot only when the ignition key is on, and provide current for the various pumps and fans through the relay in the foreground. The wires heading to the right at the top of the picture will connect to the controller interface when complete. The wiring will be tidied up somewhat when it is completed.

This is about as far as I can go with the drive electronics until I receive my controller.

This is my progress through 10/30/08
 

NEWS FLASH!  (November 17, 2008)

My controller arrived a couple of hours ago!  Unfortunately, I have a commitment for the next week, but I will be able to get right to work next week.
 

At long last I have my controller! To the left is the Hairball, which is the interface unit.  All the control and monitoring connections are connected here. To the right is the controller.  The high current, high voltage connections are made here. The manual and the cables that come with it are also shown.

It is now almost Thanksgiving and I am back after spending a wonderful week with family in California.

Board Modification and Controller Installation

I had originally planned to run the motor cables over the top of the electronics board and down at the firewall.  Reading the controller manual I found they recommend keeping the signal wires and the power cables a foot apart.  Most of my signal wires run along the rear of the board along the firewall.  To even approach this separation, I need to pass the motor cables down through the board right next to the controller.

I removed the electronics board and removed all the components and wiring.  I then enlarged the pass through hole in the board to accommodate two more power cables.  I also enlarged a small hole I use for low current wires to pass through the board.  After touch-up painting, and installing the controller mounting screws, I re-mounted all the components and wiring, and installed the board back in the truck.

After mounting the controller and hairball, I made my final two power cables that attach the positive contactor and the shunt to the controller, and terminated the two motor leads and attached them to the controller.
 

The controller and hairball are installed and the power wiring is completed with the last 4 connections to the controller.

A bottom view of the board (at its reduced limit of lift) shows all the power cables in place.  It also shows the two motor cables which I protected using wire loom instead of the heavy vinyl tubing for improved flexibility.

Electronics Board Hinge Modifications

I knew all along that the hairball clearance to the windshield wiper motor was going to be a limiting factor on how high I could raise the electronics board.  After completing all the re-installation and the addition of the controller and hairball, I tried lifting the board.  I was quite disappointed in the reduced amount of lift I could now get.

I went back to my CAD layouts, entering the exact location of the hairball and the windshield wiper motor, and experimented with moving the hinge point.  I fount that by moving the hinge point forward 2 inches and up 1/2 inch, the board would lift about 50% higher.  It probably will lift more than the open hood will allow.

I designed a pair of adapters that bolt to the original hinge halves on the firewall and extend the hinge points to the new locations.  I then made new brackets that mount on the board to provide the other half of the hinges.  The board now rests in the same position as before, but pivots about a different point when being lifted.
 

After having just removed the board, stripping it down, and then re-doing it all, I did not want to repeat that to modify the hinges. Instead, I made a sling from some nylon strap and used my engine hoist to support it.  I was then able to lift it slightly and position it to allow access to the hinges without disconnecting any wiring.

I finally got around to making my final hinge pins.  Instead of allowing the threads of a bolt act as the pivot, I machined a pair of 3/8 diameter spacers which are held in place by a 1/4 inch bolt. This provides a smooth, tough pivot. I made these in time to install for the first time when I replaced the electronics board after modifying the through holes.  They will still be used with the extended hinges.

The modified hinges are installed.  The bolts nearest the firewall are the original hinge points, and are now tightly bolted to hold the adapter.  The new hinge points are 2 inches toward the front of the truck. The board now opens much higher than before re-doing the hinges.  In addition, the limiting contact point is now the top corner of the controller hitting the rubber gasket at the top of the firewall.  This assures that no damage will be done if the board is carelessly opened too wide.

Completion of Wiring

Now that the board is mounted (hopefully) for the final time and I have good clearances, it is time to complete the wiring of the board.  The main circuits that need completion are the various signals into and out of the hairball.  These include things such as power and ground, ignition and start circuits, the throttle wiring, the speed control wiring, the control to activate one of the contactors and several connections to monitor existing signals.
 

I have completed the wiring except for one ground wire to the chassis.  There are additional features I hope to utilize in the future, but they can be added readily at any time..

Preparing for the First Drive

Now that the wiring is complete there are only a few items left before I can give the truck its inaugural test drive.  I need to program the controller, plumb the controller cooling system, fill it with antifreeze, and run some preliminary tests.

Programming the Controller

Before I can use the controller, I must program certain parameters into it.  This is one of the big advantages that convinced me to use this system.  I used my old laptop computer to do this.  Some of the parameters are the maximum current allowed to be taken from the batteries and to the motor, the minimum voltage allowed, the maximum RPM of the motor, etc.  There are also a number of functions which can be turned on or off.  In all there are about 27 programmable items.  In addition it is equipped to output streams of data while you drive which can provide many performance readings as well as diagnostics.  I have not yet really investigated all that can be done here, but it is extensive.
 

I have my laptop connected to the hairball to program many parameters into the controller system.  I am using a laptop computer here, but many use a Palm handheld PDA to do the same thing.  I plan to set up a Palm PDA to do this and carry it in the truck.

Controller Cooling System

The Zilla is a liquid cooled controller.  To this end I have installed a recirculating pump and a small radiator.  I needed to connect flexible vinyl tubing between all these parts.  In addition I included a squeeze bulb to use for priming the system.  After connecting the hoses, I gradually added an antifreeze and distilled water mix to the radiator.  I then pumped the bulb to force the solution all through the system, frequently adding coolant to keep the radiator full.  It took a while, but I finally got all the major air bubbles out, with only a fine foam at some of the high points.  I now started the pump which continued to circulate the fluid gradually letting the remaining air collect in the radiator and rise to the reservoir.

Pre-operation Test

Before applying full voltage and current to the system, I wanted to check that everything is functional while maintaining full safety.  I pulled one of the motor leads from the controller and connected a 60 watt light bulb between the controller and the motor. 

For safety's sake, to turn on the controller, you must turn on the ignition, then activate the starter position for a couple seconds.  Once activated, the power is applied, the throttle is active, and you can then drive.

I tried to energize the system to verify that the bulb would light.  My first several tries failed.  I then remembered that to activate the starter, you must fully depress the clutch pedal.  Once I did that, there was a clunk of the second contactor and as I pressed the accelerator, the light bulb lit.  The harder I pressed, the brighter the bulb.  Test OK! 

FIRST TEST DRIVE !!!  (December 1, 2008 3:20PM)

I was now ready to try it out.

To memorialize this historic event, I set up my camcorder on a tripod in the garage and taped my first drive.

I got in the truck and remembered to press the clutch while going through the ignition on - start switch sequence.  Then I put it in reverse and slowly backed out of the garage.  I drove around the block and pulled back into my garage.  It was successful from the point that I made it out, around, and back safely.  The downside was that my performance was abysmal.  I was never able to draw more than about 100 amps, and had to shift down to first to make it up the hill on the block below mine and again up the driveway.

I then reviewed the settings I programmed into the controller against a sample in the manual and realized I had been far too conservative in a couple of my settings.  I changed these settings and the following morning I drove it again.  This time it was much more satisfying.  It is certainly no speed demon, but has almost reasonable performance.  I was now able to pull up to about 300 amps, with the corresponding improvement in performance.  I will continue to fine tune the parameters over time.

Note of December 3:
This morning I checked the batteries with a hydrometer to see if I truly had a full charge.  I did!  I then went through the controller settings and liberalized all of them, including ones that I don't think have any relevance to my setup.  I drove the truck and it almost snapped my neck!  The performance exceeded the  performance it had as an ICE (internal combustion engine) truck, although that was never very spectacular.  I drove the truck for about 5 to 6 miles, up some pretty steep hills, and it was still snappy as I pulled up my driveway.  I was able to pull over 500 amps at will, although I tried not to.  I have 3 expensive fuses in the circuit - all rated at 500 amps!  Resetting the controller parameters will give me the proper limits, as soon as I determine which ones were responsible for allowing this much more satisfying performance.
 

I shot a video of my first drive.  This is a frame from that video showing me driving my truck away from my house.

As the under-hood work is basically done, I re-installed the hood.  Now I am able to see how well my modified hinges are matched to the hood opening.  It is almost perfect.  The board lifts just to the point where it almost touches the hood when both are lifted to the limits.
 

The electronics board is raised to its new upper limit.  As you can see, it just clears the open hood as the top corner of the controller just touches the rubber hood gasket. In the foreground you can see the green contents of the cooling hoses coming from the controller.  That is the antifreeze in the connecting hoses. The green wire from the controller is its connection to the hairball. The silver unit at the top end of the board is the DC to DC converter.

I took this opportunity to remove the plastic lettering advertising the original selling dealer from my tailgate.  I hate those ads!  In its place I installed one of my new "ELECTRIC" emblems.  I think that looks much better.
 
 

My new emblem looks much better than the dealer advertising that was defacing that part of my tailgate.

Although I have now driven my truck, it is by no means done.  I still need to finish the lift bed installation, the charging cable setup, the cab heater, additional instrumentation, etc.  Later sections will cover these items.
 

This is my progress though December 3, 2008

To go the the next section, click here.